Optima Magazine

The Edgwarebury Corus Hotel • Barnet Lane • Elstree • WD6 3RE • 0844 736 8602

Reviewed by Jill Glenn

stepping into the lobby at The Edgwarebury Hotel gives you a definite feeling of going back in time, with an ornate fireplace, plus wonderful frieze paintings of the Spanish Armada, and wood panelling, some of which was recovered from Spanish ships involved in the naval battles. It’s a nod to the first recorded occupant of what was then Edgwarebury House, Commander Sir Tim Dawson BT of the Royal Navy, who was in residence here in 1540. It’s easy to see why he liked the spot, for it has fabulous views towards the capital, and its ten acres of wooded grounds look lovely in the sunshine especially ordered in for the occasion.

The restaurant is also panelled, but full of light from windows on two sides. The whole place has a pleasing air of faded elegance.

The menu is brief (five options for each stage of the meal), but enticing. I found it curious that the obviously vegetarian choices are not flagged up as such, and that the side dishes of vegetables are not mentioned either, although available (and necessary). The wine list, too, didn’t show anything by the glass, but when we asked there were three or four choices of both white and red.

My starter of Carpaccio of Glazed Beetroot and Horseradish Chantilly was utterly delicious. Symmetrically presented on a long white dish, it was millimetre-perfect in its positioning, if a little meagre on provision of beetroot. My companion’s Somerset Brie and Red Onion Tart with Balsamic Glaze and Salad of Herbs was also very pretty and won praise particularly for the pastry case, which retained a good crispy texture, although the onions were oversweet.

I persuaded my guest to eschew his favourite Calves Liver (served here with Pomme Purée and Red Onion Chutney) in favour of Ribeye Steak with Sautéed Garlic Mushrooms and Peppercorn Sauce. It proved bad advice. The steak, although tender, had been cooked for longer than ‘Medium Rare, please’ required, and while the shredded mushrooms were unusual, and strongly flavoured, the chips were not quite cooked through, and the aftertaste was really quite unpleasant.

My own choice, Fillet of Sea Bass with Herbed Potatoes, Wilted Spinach and Sauce Vierge, was, by contrast, delicious. The fish was delicate, the potatoes excellent and the sauce turned it from a random array of ingredients into something well-composed. I’d have given it ten out of ten if it hadn’t been served (like the other main course and the vegetables) on a cold plate, so that by the time we came to the end everything was tepid at best.

Crème Brûlée, served with Lemon Shortbread and Toffee Emulsion, was everything I could wish for ­– light and creamy – and slipped down a treat. The shortbread was pretty fantastic too: just the right amount of lemoniness and rather chewy in the middle, which struck me as unorthodox but quite inspired.

My companion chose Victoria Bread & Butter Pudding, served at Edgwarebury with English Raspberry Coulis, White Chocolate and Di Saronno glaze. The first few mouthfuls went down a treat, but it then became bland; the overall effect was pleasant enough but it needed some little extra to raise it out of the run-of-the-mill…

Price Guide:
Starters: £4.95-£7.95
Mains: £12.95-£23
Desserts: £4.95-£7.50
House Wine: £14.95