Optima Magazine

The Green • Sarratt • WD3 6AS • 01923 270877

Reviewed by Alan Cox

When it comes to location, The Cricketers in Sarratt probably has it all. Taking pride of place in the centre of this delightful little village, right next to the duck pond, it’s hard to ignore its instant kerb appeal, and on a cold and dank January evening there’s nothing to beat its cosy welcome with its roaring open fire and homely interior.

I loved the feel of the place, with its many nooks and crannies and hidden seating areas around unexpected corners. Add to this the warm atmosphere created by the clever, sophisticated lighting and the candles lit on every table in the restaurant area, and my first impressions were good.

The menu is extensive but – without wishing to cause offence to chef or owners – quite predictable in many ways. As we were about to discover, though, this isn’t your standard pub grub. Where The Cricketers undoubtedly scores a resounding ‘six’ is in its homely and hearty delivery of some classic rustic dishes.

I started with Pan-fried Wild Mushrooms and Wilted Spinach on Toast, topped with a Poached Egg, whilst my wife continued her love affair with Scallops: Pan-fried and served with Crushed Peas and a Bloody Mary dressing. Both dishes were well presented, with the peas a perfect partnering for the shellfish and the delicate drizzle of dressing adding colour and interest. Hard to fault the simplicity of my mushroom starter; suffice to say, I’d eat it all again right now!

Pub favourites such as Fish and Chips, Burgers and Chicken and Ham Pie all find their way into the varied selection of main courses, together with a fair few ‘winter warmers’, ideal for a chilly night. I opted for the Braised Pork Belly on Black Pudding Mash, Seasonal Veg and Apple Sauce; my wife chose Braised beef in Guinness, served with Onions and Horseradish Dumplings, Garlic Mash and Buttered Cabbage.

She was (forgive the continuation of the cricketing metaphor) bowled over with this ‘melt in the mouth’ beef with its rich sauce. The mashed potato was an instant hit, full of lovely pieces of garlic, although the dumplings, by contrast, were a little subtle; it was hard to appreciate the addition of the horseradish.

My own mash, with its flecks of black pudding, likewise proved to be a little bland, and didn’t really hold its own alongside the excellent and very flavoursome pork, which demanded full attention.

As you’d expect from a drinking establishment, the wine list is comprehensive and I liked the divisions of ‘light and fruity’, ‘smooth and earthy’ and ‘rich and plummy’, which makes it so much easier for a non-expert aficionado.

When it comes to puddings, here is a chef after my own heart. I would have been happy with almost anything off the menu, and I couldn’t fault my choice of Apple and Mixed Berry Crumble, served with custard. Delicious, indeed, as was my wife’s decadent Sticky Toffee Pudding served with vanilla ice cream.

The service was excellent throughout the evening, working to a perfectly executed game plan, and adding a final personal touch to a rather pleasant first innings at this charming and endearing establishment.

Howzat!

Price Guide:
Starters: £4.95-£8.95
Mains: £9.95-£17.95
Desserts: £4.50-£5.50
House Wine: £14.50