Optima Magazine

Village Hotel • Centennial Park • Elstree • WD6 3SB • 0844 980 0302

Reviewed by Alan Cox

‘Hi Guys… have you had a busy day?’ was the universal greeting as diners were ushered to their tables in this new Italian/American diner at the Village Hotel in Elstree. Buca, I’m led to believe, is something of a phenomenon in the States and is just dipping its toe into the UK market with a handful of eateries recently opened, all within the De Vere Village chain of hotels.

Think TGI Friday’s meets Garfunkels and you wouldn’t be far wrong; think plastic red checked tablecloths, 1950s memorabilia adorning the walls, jazz music pumping and an army of bright young waiting staff, all proudly sporting their red Buca ties and you’ve got the picture.

Our server was quick to point out that Buca is all about ‘sharing’ and the vast menu boasts numerous platters and combos of food ideal for a large party of diners to dip in and out of.

We started with a couple of cocktails – the Ultimate Raspberry Lemondrop (a combination of Bacardi and Chambord liqueur with a fresh sour mix topped with lemonade) for me, and a non-alcoholic fruit cocktail for my wife. We declined garlic bread with our drinks in favour of a dish of olives – judging from the food being delivered to adjoining tables, we were going to need healthy appetites to do justice to the generous portions of food being served.

In true Buca-style we shared a laden platter – Fried Calamari, Fried Mozzarella and Stuffed Mushrooms – to start. With a trio of dipping sauces and a large pair of tongs with which to serve them, they were everything we were expecting.

Almost all dishes (starters, mains and desserts) come in two sizes, large: which serves up to three people, and small: a generous single portion. Mains are a selection of pizzas and pastas in numerous disguises and a selection of meat and fish dishes. I opted for the Oven-roasted Salmon whilst my wife ventured into the pasta, choosing Spaghetti with Meatballs.

For meatballs read meatball. There was only one, although it was (literally) the size of a tennis ball. It came smothered in marinara sauce and served on a mountain of spaghetti. The sauce got the thumbs up, but the meatball was rather bland and looked rather more impressive than it tasted. My salmon, on the other hand, was full of fresh flavours and went quite nicely with the mellow pesto cream sauce, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted garlic and pine nuts, plus side dishes of Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Green Beans.

I’m still telling everyone about my dessert – Espresso Chocolate Cake. Dark and moist with layers of rich chocolate frosting, served on a sea of chocolate Sambuca sauce – and unforgettable in terms of its sheer size! If this is a small portion, then I hate to think what a large one is like. I don’t doubt that it’s a ‘chocoholics’ dream, but it would have fed at least four diners or more. My wife’s Profiteroles, served cold, were much more sensible in terms of portion size although rather unusual in terms of their pale appearance.

Buca may have only been open in Elstree for two months, but judging by their track record across the Atlantic, and its popularity on the evening of our visit, it looks set for a long and popular residency. ‘Have a nice stay…’

Price Guide:
Starters: £3.95-£5.95
Mains: £3.95-£15.95
Desserts: £4.95-£5.95
House Wine: £19.95