Optima Magazine

Reviewed by Jill Glenn

The Hare at Brookshill in Harrow Weald has undergone some notable transformations in its 200 year history, but its newest look must be one of the most pleasing. The interior design scheme is muted and soothing (lots of taupes and browns, soft greens and rich creams), setting the scene for a calm, relaxed atmosphere. There’s a soft buzz of noise, and enough people at their tables to make the place feel pleasantly busy, but not overpowering.

The food was very fishy… by which I mean that both my guest and I chose fish-based starters and fish-based main courses. There are plenty of meat options, of course – including 28-day matured Scotch steaks, caramelised duck breast, beef medallions, chicken supreme and rack of lamb – but we each gravitated to the fish and seafood side of things. And it certainly made choosing a suitable wine easier. Sauvignon Blanc, beautifully chilled. Perfect.

Attention to detail in areas such as wine temperature can set an establishment apart from its competitors. At The Hare the impression is that everything matters, and everything is coming under scrutiny. Our failing tealight was twice whisked away and replaced, for example. Sure, the lack of a functioning candle doesn’t make much difference to how your meal tastes, but eating out is about having some of your basic needs met, and you don’t want to feel forgotten.

To make life complicated we both, unusually, wanted to order exactly the same things: Scallops with Lardons and Pea Purée to start, and Hake on Spinach Risotto as a main course. In the interests of more diverse reading – and eating – we agreed to mix and match. I ‘won’ the Scallops; my guest agreed to ‘compromise’ with Grilled Sardines – although ‘compromise’ is an unfair term for a dish which proved mouth-wateringly fresh. The Scallops too were excellent: a real taste of the sea. I thought at first they were too salty, but the delicious Pea Purée counterbalanced this perfectly. A very well judged dish.

I yielded the Hake to my companion, and opted for a straightforward offering of Pan-fried Salmon, which was generous and flavoursome. I notice from the up-to-date menu online that the mashed potato accompaniment has been replaced by Bombay potatoes, an interesting little tweak that would certainly tempt me back.

The Hake was also full of flavour, and the risotto very light, with the taste and the texture of the spinach coming through well.

We shared a Crème Brûlée to finish: possibly the most beautifully presented Brûlée I’ve ever had, with its two shortbread biscuits, its fruit coulis and fanned strawberry garnish. The texture was just a little thick, perhaps, but neither of us could fault the flavour.

I’d describe The Hare as a ‘gastropub’. Its owners call it a ‘contemporary Country Dining Restaurant’. Either way it’s evident from this evening’s experience that food is a key part of the offering in this revamped historic building. The first public house on this site opened in 1706 – but there’s certainly nothing backward-looking about the current establishment. It’s very now…

Price Guide:
Starters: £5.95-£7.95
Mains: £10.50-£21.95
Desserts: £4.50
House wine: £14.95