Optima Magazine

Redhall Lane • Chandler's Cross • WD3 4LU • 01923 270009

Reviewed by Alan Cox

With the exclusive Grove Hotel as its nearest neighbour, The Clarendon (once a popular pub, now an über trendy restaurant) has its work cut out to entice the discerning diner through its doors.

I’d heard plenty of good things about the place from friends and colleagues, so my expectations were high. It’s certainly an imposing building and making your way from the car park to the entrance it’s clear that no expense has been spared on the exterior design and attention to detail. It all feels very elite.

The interior is ‘full on’ contemporary… concrete floors and exposed brickwork, and, with minimalist furniture and a large open hatch to the kitchen, very reminiscent of Gordon Ramsey’s The F Word setting, although thankfully a lot quieter and considerably more serene!

With more diners than were present last Monday, the quirky bistro/kitchen eating ambience might really take off, but, given that it was less than half-full, I found it lacking personality and warmth, so that it was more about the food than the occasion.

The wine list is huge, with some great choices. The newly introduced Enomatic system (a ‘state-of-the-art automated technology to preserve, serve and manage wine’) means that there is the chance to sample just a glass of some more unusual offerings – a fruity white from Corsica being a fine example.

I started the meal with Tartine of Cornish crab, mango and apple: a simple and delicate creamy concoction served on a soldier of thick toast. Nice enough, but perhaps a little overpriced at £10. My wife’s Smoked Scottish Salmon with a mountain of frisée lettuce and a citrus dressing was fresh and full of flavour but, if I’m honest, neither starter really stood out from the crowd.

Thankfully the main courses did step up to the mark, and we enjoyed watching the chef plating each dish in full view of the diners and certainly adding a touch of theatre to the proceedings. No room for error here.

My Roast Gressingham duck was succulent and really rather good indeed, served with runner beans, toasted almonds, fondant potatoes and sweet and sour plums. I was beginning to be won over. Equally impressive was my wife’s Cornish Red Chicken Kiev on a bed of peas à la Française, with rosemary and sweet onion mash. If we had one niggle it would be that both dishes were rather salty, but that’s just our personal taste.

All the desserts sounded tempting, but I couldn’t resist a firm favourite of mine, Sticky Toffee Pudding. It arrived on a thick wooden board, in a mini metal pot with a separate jug of sauce. Quirky presentation; great taste. My wife’s Crème Brulée, served with a crispy Breton biscuit, didn’t disappoint, but did lack the wow factor.

There was certainly much to enjoy and admire at The Clarendon, but despite its unique modern style it didn’t quite live up to its high reputation. A case of the sum of the parts not quite adding up to the whole. Perhaps we just hit an off night…

Price Guide:

Starters: £6.50-£10
Mains £14.50-£18.50
Desserts: £5.50-£10
House wine: £17.50