Optima Magazine

12 Kaduna Close ■ Pinner ■ HA5 2PZ ■ 020 8868 8835

Reviewed by Alan Cox

like me, you could be forgiven for thinking that you were completely in the wrong place… but persevere to the bottom of Kaduna Close and you will, eventually, find The Spice Room – tucked away at the back of a health club and overlooking the tennis courts.

I was astonished to find such a thriving establishment in the most unlikely backwaters of Northwood Hills. Last Friday the place was positively buzzing with diners of all ages chatting and having a good time, creating an immediate and appealing upbeat atmosphere in this large and unusual venue.

The interior is contemporary with an almost clubby feel – great for a function – and really relaxed and informal. I had my family in tow, and we couldn’t have all been made to feel more welcome. After beers and non-alcoholic cocktails, and a munch on a popadom or two, enter our Italian maître d', Igor. No, that’s not a typo: Italian.

With a personality as big as the place itself, Igor was the life and soul of this Indian party and as captain of the ship, steered his crew of hard working Indian waiters with flair and a unique charm.

We left the choice of food in his capable hands, and started with a mixed platter of dishes all traditional to North India.

Chicken Tikka, Pudina Seekh Kebab and Tandoori Lamb Chops made up one half of the salver with the remaining consisting of vegetarian selections: assorted vegetable pakoras (crispy fritters of onion, potato, cauliflower and spinach) and Aloo Tikki (pan-fried patties of mashed potato filled with peas and served with yoghurt and chutney). The undoubted stars for me were the Lamb chops, but with the entire contents of the platter polished off within minutes, there wasn’t anything that didn’t earn a gold star from at least one of us.

It wasn’t too long before our table was laden again, this time with main courses to sample and share. I’ve had many a Karahi Chicken (tempered with cumin, coriander and red chillies and cooked slowly with peppers and tomatoes) and Lamb Rogan Josh (tender pieces in a rich flavoured tomato based sauce) in my time, but I’ve not had any better. I put this down to care and attention in the kitchen, to each recipe being prepared with its own carefully balanced spices and delicate flavourings. One of the factors that sets the Spice Room apart is the freshness of each dish.

To complement the main courses we dipped and dived into Katri Kai (a southern Indian dish of baby aubergines cooked with mustard and curry leaves with a touch of lemon), Khumb-Makai-Palak (mushroom, corn and spinach tossed with garlic and finished with masala gravy), Tarka Daal (yellow and red lentils flavoured with garlic, onions and tomato), three different Nan Breads and Pilau Rice. A true banquet – thoroughly enjoyed and appreciated by all four of us.

The home-made Tiramisu on the dessert menu made me smile. I wonder whose influence that is?. We shared The Spice Room Choc-o-Cake, a moist cake with a rich filling served warm with ice cream (and quite out of place, but who cares?) and a unusual and moreish Gajjar ka Halwa: a hot Indian carrot dessert garnished with pistachio nuts).

We all loved our evening here and were unanimous in our praise for what Igor affectionately – and accurately – describes as ‘a hidden gem…’.

Starters: £3.50 to £10.95
Main courses: £8.15 to £12.95
Desserts: £2.950 to £5.65
House wine: £13.75