Optima Magazine

Old Redding • Harrow Weald

Reviewed by Alan Cox

Arriving at the Grim’s Dyke Hotel certainly feels rather special. The long and winding drive takes you past the gatehouse, through lush woodland, and eventually leads you to this very picturesque country house, which – on an unexpectedly beautiful spring evening – looked stunning set amongst its manicured lawns and gardens.

I had been to this former home of Sir William Gilbert (the ‘G’ in G & S) for a couple of weddings and functions in the past, but this was my first visit to the restaurant.

As you’d expect it’s quite a traditional, formal affair. Anything less just wouldn’t feel right. I loved the high ceilinged dining room, full of character and just oozing history. With the heavy drapes at the windows and tapestry clad upholstery, plus a ‘pianola’ providing the background accompaniment, it felt just like stepping back in time to an era when dining out was an ‘occasion’ and not just a ‘quick bite to eat’.

The glasses of ‘pink bubbly’ were an instant hit and proved a perfect aperitif for what was to follow: a leisurely, memorable evening.

First up, a complimentary tiny cup of delicious tomato soup, and then, for me, a starter of Tempura of Soft Shell Crab served with mango and coriander, and for my wife, Chicken Liver Parfait with toasted brioche.

The presentation of both was lovely and delicate. The Parfait, neatly and thickly topping three brioche ‘soldiers’, proved a scrumptious choice with the accompanying chutney and jus adding just the right amount of interest. My Soft Shell Crab, fried in the lightest of batter, gave a crisp crunch to the palate and the fruity mango pairing worked well, although the distinct taste of crab that I was expecting wasn’t really evident. But full marks to our courteous and polite waiter who picked out a cracking glass of Italian white wine, which complemented the crab perfectly.

I followed with the recommendation of Roast Scotch Rib Eye Steak, served with home cut chips and a green peppercorn sauce. With a stack of fried onion rings and a grilled tomato on the side this was basically ‘posh steak and chips’, but I’m not complaining. Far from it. It was cooked to perfection – and just as tender and succulent as you could wish for. I loved it.

My wife’s choice of main course – Slow Braised Pork Belly, served with a faggot and apple croquettes – looked, and by her account tasted, fabulous. I loved the inclusion of a long delicate thin strip of crackling to top the dish off. The different elements worked in harmony together, in terms of both appearance and taste. Highly recommended.

If I’m honest, we were both feeling rather full by now, but we were tempted to conclude our meal with the Grande Assiette – a plate of three miniature portions of Gilbert’s most popular desserts: Vanilla Pod Crème brûlée (amazing), Gateau Opera (a decadent layered coffee and chocolate ensemble) topped with a spun sugar coil straight out of Masterchef, and Lemon Tart (light and full of zing).

I’m glad we were persuaded to dessert. In fact it won’t take much persuading for a return visit to this rather splendid country retreat.

Dinner:
Mon-Thurs: 2 courses £12.95 / 3 courses £16.95
Fri: 2 courses £16.95 / 3 courses £22
Sat: 3 courses £27.50
House wine: £18

Supplements payable for certain menu options