Optima Magazine

Denham Lodge • Willow Avenue • New Denham • UB9 4AA • 01895 231568

Reviewed by Alan Cox

Concealed from view and tucked away at the base of a block of flats… where, I wondered, was my latest eating experience taking me – and quite what would be in store? Surely this has to be one of the most unusual locations to date? Never judge a book by its cover, however, because inside, and very much at odds with its concrete exterior, La Rucola is a warm and welcoming traditional Italian restaurant.

With its terracotta tiled floors, foliage aplenty, clever use of mirrors and archways and white linen-clad tables the interior is unashamedly a little dated. But, if it’s a respite from the über-trendy that you’re looking for, then look no further. What is unusual here, and rather striking, is the view of the floodlit river and fountain from the large windows at the far end of the restaurant.

The maître‘d, or in this case the ‘capo cameriere’, was the life and soul of the party – full of personality and very attentive throughout, bringing us, to start with, a basket of fresh ciabatta and a delicious tapenade of olives and tomatoes, together with dishes of sliced chorizo, olives and feta to go with our aperitifs.
I left the choice of wine to the sommelier, who came up trumps with a smooth Sicilian red – “as enjoyed by the mafia”, allegedly. If so, I can certainly vouch for their taste!

Gamberetti Scottati, sautéed prawns in salt and pepper, was my choice of first course, while my wife was tempted by the Ravioli with Parma Ham, from the Chef’s Specials. The pasta was fresh and flavoursome, and topped with a rich cheese sauce; a very filling choice. By contrast, my prawns, served with slivers of spring onions, were rather smaller than I was expecting. Still in their shells they also proved, actually, quite a fiddle to deal with.

My main course was a much bolder and more abundant affair… Fillet of Beef with a velvety Barolo wine and mustard sauce. With strips of deep-fried zucchini to share, perfectly cooked broccoli and a dish of potato wedges, this was a good ‘no frills’ offering: perfectly tasty and very tender.

My wife chose another Chef’s Special: Venison Medallions with Horseradish Mash, which came with the same Barolo wine and mustard sauce as my steak. Presentation was again very simple, but full of flavour.

I wasn’t in the least bit surprised to see a sweet trolley winding its way towards our table for dessert. Anything less would have been a disappointment. It was laden with various bowls of fresh fruit and creamy decadence, and I couldn’t overlook the iconic tiramisu. What other way is there to complete an Italian meal? It was scrumptious and light, and as authentic as I’ve had in Italy. My wife’s Crème Brûlée wasn’t half bad either.

A frothy Cappuccino apiece seemed a fitting, customary way to round up our visit to this obviously well-loved, and rather old-fashioned, long-established Italian haven hidden away in Hillingdon.

Prego!

Starters: £7.50 to £10.50
Main courses: £11.50 to £18.50
Desserts: £5.50
House wine: £14