Optima Magazine

Butterfly Lane • Elstree • WD6 3AD • 020 8953 1049

Reviewed by Alan Cox

I didn’t realise just how steeped in history this pub
is. I know it as a familiar landmark on the rambling lane between Elstree and Letchmore Heath, within spitting distance of the Aerodrome, but was surprised to learn that it is in fact now over 200 years old.

Much has changed since George lll was on the throne however, and the pub has now been taken under the wing of the ubiquitous Chef & Brewer group. Despite this, the place still manages to keep its own appealing identity and thankfully is still full of individual charm and character.

By all accounts, the menu is pretty much a standard Chef & Brewer affair. It’s vast and a little predictable, full of traditional pub fare – Gammon and Egg, Hand Battered Fish, Steaks, Breaded Scampi, Curry of the Day etc – plus a ‘Chef Recommends…’ selection, with a few more adventurous dishes.

My wife’s starter was a case in point: Scallops with Chilli Jam. It seemed out of place, actually, alongside the likes of Prawn Cocktail, Chicken Skewers and Soup of the Day, but turned out to be a dainty dish of scallops with chorizo and the unusual accompaniment of smoked chilli jam – a taste combination which, I was reliably informed, worked very well. I was more than satisfied with my Seafood Platter – a generous selection of smoked salmon, prawns, whitebait, taramasalata and rollmop herring, served with garlic mayonnaise and warm crusty bread.

The service was quick and efficient; no sooner had our starter plates been cleared than the mains arrived.

I opted, from the ‘Chef Recommends’ list, for the Aromatic Duck with a Port and Plum Sauce. There was certainly no shortage of duck: two large pieces, served on the bone, with a jug of sauce to pour over. It was accompanied by a portion of almond-topped green beans and, it must be said, some rather anaemic roasted potatoes that lacked the golden brown appearance and crunch I was expecting.

Sticking with a pub favourite, my wife chose the Steak Burger. A 6oz rump steak burger served in a rustic bun with crispy onion rings, tomato, lettuce, chips and a sticky barbecue relish.

We couldn’t really quibble with our choices. Both delivered exactly what they set out to, but in sheer terms of quantity we did struggle to finish these two large plates of food.

When it came to desserts, this is where I felt the Battle Axes really raised the bar. I couldn’t resist the Toffee Pear Pudding, and what a great choice it turned out to be: an unusual twist on the familiar sticky toffee pudding, with the pear in its centre adding a totally new dimension. My wife was equally pleased with her Home-made Crumble of the Day (in this instance, Rhubarb and Ginger), served with custard.

I am sure the Battle Axes will still be going strong in another 200 years – in which guise, who knows? For now, though, rest assured that those with healthy appetites for good pub grub certainly won’t be going home hungry.

Starters: £2.99 to £5.30
Main Courses: £6.99 to £13.65
Desserts: £2.99 to £4.80
House Wine: £9.95