Optima Magazine

39 High Street • Bushey • WD23 1BD • 020 3188 0004

Reviewed by Alan Cox

I love Thai cuisine. Good Thai cuisine, that is, bursting with fragrant flavours and imaginative combinations of tastes and textures, plus the ‘wow’ factor of great presentation. Thai Sunset certainly impressed me the last time I had the privilege of reviewing it, so I was hoping that standards hadn’t slipped during the past couple of years since my last official visit.

Inside, the place remains smart and elegant, with its cream and brown interior still looking as clean and fresh as the day they opened.

I was determined not to order my usual choices, but – oh, how tempting – could I really forego my favourite Chicken Red Curry? Instead of following a well-worn route down the menu, my wife and I left the selection in the capable hands of Thai Sunset staff, asking them to opt for some of the slightly more ‘unusual’ offerings from their mouth-watering and extensive list.

First to appear were some neat looking ‘parcels’ which turned out to be Marinated Chicken in Pandan Leaves, deep fried and served with a sweet soya sauce. It seemed a shame to unravel and discard the leaves, but the succulent chicken in the centre was well worth the effort. Alongside this came a trio of Grilled Scallops, served in the shell with dried garlic and a spicy sauce. I couldn’t fault either; only suffice it to say, I’d have liked more!

I’m still salivating at the undoubted star of the main courses to grace our table: Steamed Sea Bass with fresh chilli, garlic, coriander, soya sauce and lime juice. Served in a fish-shaped dish, this looked and tasted amazing. It was only just the right side of being slightly too spicy, but the lightness of the sauce never overpowered the delicate white fish, and I can quite see why this is one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes.

We probably wouldn’t have selected the Tofu stir-fried with ginger, spring onions, onions and garlic, but nevertheless enjoyed this unusual partnering. The Massamun Neu-a (Beef Curry with potatoes, cashew nuts and onions) certainly stood out and made a great change to my beloved red curry. The huge chunks of beef just melted in the mouth and the thick accompanying sauce was a perfect consistency to mop up the fragrant mountain of steamed rice.
Desserts here, as at most Thai restaurants, are quite simple. On this occasion, Apple Fritters in batter (light, and softer than some brittle versions I’ve sampled elsewhere) and a refreshing Lychee Sorbet, washed down with Jasmine tea, both hit the spot.

I noted that the prices of some dishes are now lower than when they first opened. Cheaper is certainly good, as long as the quality isn’t compromised… and ‘compromise’ is certainly not on this menu. We came away as impressed, if not more so, than last time.

Starters: £4.95-£9.95
Mains £7.50-£25.95
Desserts: £2.95-£4.95
House Wine: £14.50