Optima Magazine

27-29 High Road • Bushey Heath • WD23 1EE • 020 8950 4886

Reviewed by Alan Cox

I have a vivid recollection of the first Chinese meal I ate. It was at a restaurant in Bushey Heath, and if my memory of the location serves me as well as that of the food, the place was called The Lantern House. Some thirty years later, the restaurant remains, although it has, of course, changed hands – and names – more than a few times. Its latest reincarnation is as ChiKaYan.

Gone are the plush furnishings that I remembered. Inside has taken on a new minimalistic retro look. Clean cut, simple and even stark is the order of the day – very much today’s ‘look’, with the dramatic brown, cream and gold colour scheme making its own bold statement.

ChiKaYan’s big pull is undoubtedly their ‘eat as much as you like’ menu – which according to our host, William, is very popular. You can select as many freshly prepared dishes as you like from a reasonably extensive selection, at a set price. I can see why people like it.
On this occasion however, and not wanting to overindulge any further at this gluttonous time of year, my wife and I selected from the main menu.

I was particularly impressed to notice that vegetarians would be well catered for; ChiKaYan has one of the most extensive selections of appetisers and main dishes that I’ve seen for some time.

I started with Korean BBQ King Prawn Skewers, while my wife chose Crispy Won Tun with a sweet and sour dipping sauce. The ‘unpretentious’ ambience of the restaurant and service is certainly carried through in the simple presentation of the food. Both dishes arrived on simple white plates with no frills or garnishes – bravely allowing the flavour of the food to speak for itself. Both starters were certainly tasty – with the succulent and moreish prawns beating those dainty Won Tuns into first place.

We continued our meal with Szechuan Scallops, Shredded Crispy Beef with Chilli, Thai Red Chicken Curry, Vegetarian Singapore Fried Rice Noodles and Egg Fried Rice. I have to say that these Scallops were probably some of the biggest I’ve seen in a dish such as this. The sauce is powerful and spicy, and could quite easily overpower the seafood, but the relationship between the two was pleasingly well judged. The Thai Red Curry was fantastic… The fragrant flavours were perfectly captured in this hearty and popular dish. (If we’d have been dining from the ‘eat as you much’ menu, I can guarantee I would have asked for more!).

To conclude, I chose the ubiquitous Toffee Apple, served with ice cream. I love this stalwart and the contrast between the crispy crunchy shell and its soft fruity centre. A great finish..

Let’s hope that thirty years hence, the Chinese flag will still be flying in Bushey Heath.

Starters: £3.00 to £7.00
Main courses: £5.00 to £9.90
Desserts: £2.50 to £3.50
House wine: £12.50