Optima Magazine

41 High Street • Harrow-on-the-Hill • HA1 3HT • 020 8426 6767

Reviewed by Jill Glenn

Of course, it’s marvellous news for any restaurateur when their establishment is awarded an industry accolade – the recognition of all that effort and vision and passion. Who could begrudge them their satisfaction? It would be churlish of me, wouldn’t it, not to congratulate David Taylor and the Incanto team on their newly-acquired two AA rosettes – and yet, privately, I felt a little put out when I heard the news…

Incanto has been, in my opinion, the epitome of style and class ever since it opened in 2005; it’s everything I like and appreciate in a restaurant. And I don’t want it to change. Might praise and glory go to their heads? Might they try too hard to keep it all together, or rest on their laurels and not try at all? Might it have become so popular that tables are hard to come by, and that lovely relaxed ambience has slipped by the wayside?

Time to check it out…

The menu changes regularly, but in its most recent incarnation remains full of the mouth-watering descriptions and details of fresh ingredients that clearly helped it find favour with the AA inspectors. The range of dishes is ideal: it’s extensive enough to offer a real choice, but not so lengthy that you drown in the decision-making. And if you’re unsure, then Restaurant Manager Emmanuel Kuska or one of his team – all intimate with and knowledgeable about the menu – will offer intelligent, thoughtful advice (and at the end of a long week, sometimes it’s delightful to have someone tell you what you’ll like most. Especially as he’s always spot on.).

My partner opted to start with a beautifully assembled dish of Campanian Buffalo Mozzarella, Heirloom Tomatoes, Rocket Pesto and Basil Ice Cream, with little cubes of balsamic jelly to bring all the ingredients together: a quirky take on a standard Italian starter, and a typical example of an Incanto creation: way more than the sum of its parts. For me there was Homemade Ravioli, filled with Free Range Egg and Spinach, plus Cauliflower Puree, Trumpet Mushroom and Black Truffle: a triumph – luscious, visually delightful and a perfect mix of taste and texture.

To follow, across the table, Pan fried Wild Black Sea Bass, Potato Lasagnetta and Foraged Sea Vegetables; for me, Venison Three Ways: Loin with Beetroot and Balsamic Purée, Scotch Egg with Garlic Aioli, Ossobucco with Celeriac and Apple Galette. Both were a treat for the eye and for the tastebuds. They may sound elaborate and contrived, but there is an underlying simplicity – beautiful flavours, quality ingredients. This is the Incanto that I remember and respect.

Desserts are – and I say this as someone who’s not a particular dessert fan – intricately crafted and utterly desirable. Think Ginger Bread Pudding, Orange Blossom Pannacotta and Macerated Clementines. Or Macademia Praline Semifreddo with Roasted Pear. Think of them, and be envious.

Like the food, Incanto is more than the sum of its parts… menu, staff, atmosphere (still relaxed, buzzy, charming). It hasn’t changed, I’m glad to report. In truth, I’d say those AA rosettes were overdue. And well-deserved. But of course – I knew that.

Starters: £6.50 to £11.25
Main courses: £14.25 to £22.50
Desserts: £6.95 to £8.95
House wine: £15.95