Optima Magazine

81 High Road • Bushey Heath • WD23 1EL • 020 8950 8231

Reviewed by Jill Glenn

I’d be lying if I said that Ruby’s, on the High Road in Bushey Heath, has kerb appeal. Its exterior is, to be honest, a bit… basic. Step inside, though, and it’s a totally different story: sharp, smart and very stylish. And clearly there are plenty of people not deterred by outward appearances: when I turned up at 8 for dinner last Tuesday the place was well over half full, and buzzing. Ruby’s, in a time when many a restaurant is struggling and many more are failing, has just had one of its best Julys ever. That’s a real accomplishment.

It’s not hard to understand why, though. The atmosphere is friendly, and the establishment offers extremely good value for money, with a £10 menu, for example (Monday to Saturday, 12pm to 3pm; Monday to Friday, 5:30pm to 9pm), that offers two courses and plenty of choice; you can add the third course for an extra £2 if you’re so minded. I’m a great aficionado of this, especially as a lunchtime option, but on this occasion I decided to branch out into the main menu.

Value for money is the theme here, too, with ridiculously generous portions. The flavours are great, though, so who’s complaining?

I picked Calamari Fritte in Coconut Tempura with Sweet Chilli Sauce to start, and very good it was too. I couldn’t taste much of the coconut, to be fair, but the batter was beautifully light; with a little dressed salad on the side the dish worked very well. My partner’s choice, an unusual Goats Cheese and Apricot Tart with Rocket and Balsamic, won praise too, with the addition of the fruit layer providing an interesting balance to the overall mild cheese flavour.

Main courses – one Smoked Haddock with Cheddar Mash, a Horseradish and Wasabi Sauce and a Parmesan Crisp; one Slow Braised Lamb Shank with Creamy Mash plus Gravy and Roasted Vegetables – were faultless: excellent quality ingredients, beautifully prepared and cooked, and very well presented.

Desserts are simple and traditional. We opted for one Eton Mess and two spoons, and found the classic combination of cream, meringue and fresh strawberries the perfect ending to the meal.

I’m a fan of Ruby’s. It’s great for a casual lunch, for a more relaxed evening meal, and ideal for parties. What more could you want from a neighbourhood restaurant?

Starters: £4.00 to £5.50
Main courses: £9.00 to £14.50
Desserts: £4.00 to £5.00
House wine: £12.00