Optima Magazine

513 Uxbridge Road • Hatch End • HA5 4JS • 020 8428 9973/3126

Reviewed by Alan Cox

Is Hatchets the longest-standing restaurant in Hatch End? Possibly. It’s certainly the most traditional, in the good old fashioned sense of the word. The intimacy of the place, with its sage green furnishings cream walls and dark wood, remains both classic and cosy. Timeless.

It’s a couple of years since I last ate here, but immediately I have a sense of déjà vu. Everything seems so familiar – we even sit at the same table. Nothing seems to have changed. In fact, looking back over some of our previous reviews, I note that many of the dishes Optima has sampled over the years are still being served. Obviously a popular menu.

Starters are varied, and carefully selected to satisfy even the most discerning of palates. I’m sorely tempted by the Moules Marinière (a particular favourite), but resist in favour of what proves to be an impressive Portobello Mushroom, topped with melted Gorgonzola and Cheddar cheese on a bed of salad leaves, and served on the most flamboyant of coloured glass plates: a simple dish, full of flavour and very satisfying.

My wife’s popular choice of Scallops wrapped in Pancetta is as good as ever, with the thin strips of pancetta lightly complementing, rather than overpowering, the delicate flavour of the shell fish, and artistically presented on yet another bold square glass plate.

To follow I’ve chosen Kleftiko, a Greek version of Lamb Shank, slowly baked lamb on the bone, served with mashed potato and a side dish of mixed vegetables. The lamb is as tender as you could wish for but I find the accompanying sauce a little lacklustre. In comparison, my wife’s choice of Aylesbury Duckling Breast served with a light and fruity Apple and Orange Relish is full of flavour. Both are really generous portions but lack that sense of theatricality in terms of presentation that the starters had achieved. I was also, to be honest, expecting more flavour and culinary expertise from the ‘mash’. And no lumps. Maybe we’ve hit an ‘off night’?

In artistic and taste terms, the desserts really step up to the mark, though, and continue where the starters left off. Chilled Strawberry and Cream Pancake with Chocolate Sauce, Bread and Butter Pudding, Chocolate Truffle Cake... a real dilemma… but eventually all overlooked for some really scrummy Apricots stuffed with Cream and Mascarpone, with a Crust of Pistachios and garnished with mixed berries. The homemade Crème Caramel (another personal favourite) also gets a definite thumbs up from my wife.

I can quite see why Hatchets continues to thrive in this ever evolving and cut throat industry. It has found its own niche, and sticks to it, delivering, over the years, just what its dependable and loyal clientele are evidently looking for. Bravo!

Starters: £4.95 to £11.95
Main courses: £12.50 to £24.95
Desserts: £5.50
House wine: £13.50