Optima Magazine

Redhall Lane • Chandlers Cross • WD3 4LU • 01923 270009

Reviewed by Jill Glenn

I last visited The Clarendon Arms some ten years ago, when it was shabby and tired. Reinvented as The Clarendon, newly re-opened, it is unrecognisable from that earlier, uninspiring incarnation.

The main bar/restaurant, known as the Canteen, has a quirky personality, with exposed brickwork, fabulous modern lighting and lowish tables with chairs that manage to be both stylish and comfortable. The feeling is relaxed: contemporary without being too clever – and a million light years away from the drab interiors of the past. Upstairs is the ‘Refined Dining’ room, to be opened in March. Very stylish, very welcoming and with an extravagant menu that promises much.

The Canteen menu is pretty good too, though, with interesting twists on standard gastro pub food – plus some tempting originals. Starters include braised rabbit with trofie pasta, for example; roasted pepper with tomato, garlic & goats curd; green bean & bacon salad and woodbaked Scottish scallops. The bean/bacon salad was crisp and fresh; the scallops perfectly cooked and tangily dressed. A very generous portion, too.

The main courses prompted much debate: Cornish crab linguini versus South Indian fish curry & coconut rice; calves liver & bacon rosti versus roast breast of duck with black pudding, chestnuts & apple. What to choose… what to choose?

The calves liver won me over, and I recommend it – meltingly tender, and beautifully complemented by the crisp rosti. My companion’s Greek lamb stew with champ arrived in an individual saucepan, a curious touch that made us both smile, but reinforced the impression that the kitchen is populated by chefs who like to take nothing for granted and don’t expect you to do so either. The stew was flavoursome, and rapidly devoured. Both dishes were very… meaty (yes, I know that’s quite obvious) and in retrospect we should probably have ordered a side dish – seasonal greens with butter & shallots, say – to balance out the flavours.

Desserts created a similar choice conundrum. How can one reasonably be expected to discriminate between Cambridge burnt cream and treacle tart, or between caramelised apple crumble and Eccles cakes with Wensleydale cheese?! To my surprise, faced with this panoply of delights, I found that the one thing I wanted in all the world was the chilled vanilla rice pudding with warm spiced pineapple – and all I can say is wow! What a clever, devious combination of flavours and textures. The treacle tart opposite me was splendid too, with a rich darkness that offset the natural sweetness.

It’s interesting to see a restaurant operating when it’s been open only three nights. I thought The Clarendon team did well. The waiting staff were a little nervous, a little tentative, but time and practice will overcome that, and there was certainly nothing unsure about the food that came out of the kitchens…